Garment Grading
for Knitting
Patterns
Last
updated: 09/21/2024
I grade women's, men's, and children's (from 2 years up) clothing with the exception of baby sizes and socks.
What
I need to provide a cost
estimate and completion date:
- Photos
of the
sample.
- Instructions that match
the sample size, preferably in google docs or .docx format.
- The
ideal size range and number of sizes to grade. To be considered
size-inclusive for women, a design must include sizes to fit a range of
at least 30" / 76 cm to 60" / 152 cm bust size (actual garment
measurements have ease added to these numbers) with even (as much as
stitch patterns and gauge allow) jumps between the sizes. With 4" / 10
cm jumps between sizes, this comes to at least 9 sizes.
- If
you'd like me to provide a schematic diagram.
Info
I need when my estimate and completion date are accepted (if not
already provided):
- Measurements of the
sample.
- The target amount of
ease at chest level.
- The amount of yarn (in
grams, yards, or meters) used
for the sample so that I can estimate yardage for each graded size.
- Optionally
a style sheet or a previously graded pattern so I may follow the same
style.
- Optionally the sizing
standards to use (if no preference, I use the sizing standards in The
Knitting Pattern Writing Handbook by McGrath & Walworth).
My
standard grading process is as follows:
- Check the sample-size
instructions to ensure they produce the intended garment and all
numbers are consistent. I may ask questions or for additional photos to
confirm the gauge and desired ease at various body measurements.
- Determine
finished graded chest measurements and sizes and check them with my
client before proceeding. (Stitch patterns as well as gauges determine
the practical sizes.)
- Create new charts for
different sizes, if needed (this is sometimes the case for colorwork in
circular yokes, for example), and check them with my client before
proceeding.
- Complete
spreadsheet grading.
- Modify the sample-size
instructions to include all sizes per my grading and make any style or
other changes I would normally flag or change when tech-editing.
- Check my
work.
- Add the schematic
measurements for all sizes. Optionally create a schematic
diagram.
- Check my work
again.
- Send the graded pattern
instructions to my client in a .docx file (or in google docs), ready
for them to check and prepare the final layout as
desired.
- Check the final pattern
for anything missed.
- I
make myself available if any potential grading/editing problems arise
during testing or otherwise. No additional billable time applies to fix
my errors, should any occur.
Pricing
My
billable time when grading patterns varies greatly with the complexity
of the design. Typically my billable hours are between 6 and 12 hours
but it can be more, or less, and I do the work over at least 3 days and often
longer. I find the easiest designs to grade are usually drop shoulder and
circular yoke constructions. Raglans may require a little more
work to get the raglan increases just right. The most complex to grade
are ones with an allover stitch pattern with a long stitch pattern repeat and set-in
sleeves or other construction types.
My hourly rate is $48, billable in 15-minute
increments.
All prices/rates/quotes are in USD. Payment is due upon
receipt of the
invoice/completion of grading. I accept payments with credit/debit
cards online via a secure link in invoices sent, as well as
other methods listed on the Payments
page.
With
care and spreadsheets,
---Sue |
